Margaret Hebblethwaite moved to Paraguay in 2000, where she has since established, and continues to run the Santa Maria Education Fund.

Introduction viii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 4, History 10, Government and politics 18, Economy 18, People 19, Language 20, Religion 21, Education 22, Culture 23 Chapter 2 Practical Information 28 When to visit 28, Suggested itineraries 29, International tour operators 29, Red tape 31, Embassies and consulates 32, Getting there and away 33, Health 38, Safety 44, What to take 46, Money 46, Budgeting 48, Getting around 49, Accommodation 52, Eating and drinking 55, Public holidays and festivals 56, Shopping 57, Arts and entertainment 58, Visiting museums and churches 58, Media and communications 58, Cultural etiquette 61, Travelling positively 62 PART TWO THE GUIDE 65 Chapter 3 Asuncion 66 History 66, Getting there and away 67, Orientation 67, Getting around 68, Tourist information, tour operators and agencies 73, Where to stay 77, Where to eat and drink 84, Entertainment and nightlife 89, Shopping 91, Other practicalities 95, What to see and do 97, Excursions 119 Chapter 4 Circuito de Oro 121 Getting out of Asuncion 123, Suggested circuits 128, Fernando de la Mora 131, Travelling along Ruta 2 131, San Lorenzo 132, Capiata 135, Itaugua 138, Ypacarai 140, Caacupe 141, Itacurubi de la Cordillera 144, Towns north of Ruta 2 144, Luque 144, Aregua 148, San Bernardino 153, Altos 156, Emboscada 157, Atyra 158, Tobati 159, Vapor Cue 162, Towns south of Ruta 2 162, Pirayu 163, Piribebuy 163, Valenzuela 167, Sapucai 168, Travelling along Ruta 1 169, Ita 170, Yaguaron 172, Paraguari 176, Carapegua 177, Ybycui 178, La Colmena 179, Salto Cristal 179, San Roque Gonzalez 180, Quiindy 181, Parque Nacional Lago Ypoa 181, Caapucu 183 Chapter 5 Misiones and the Jesuit Reductions 185 Villa Florida 187, San Miguel 190, San Juan Bautista 191, San Ignacio Guasu 196, Santa Maria de Fe 205, Santa Rosa 210, Santiago 212, Ayolas 214 Chapter 6 Southwest to Neembucu and the Old Battlegrounds 223 Pilar 225, Humaita 232, Fishing pueblos along the Rio Parana 235, Northern Neembucu 240 Chapter 7 Southeast to Itapua and the Ruins 241 San Cosme y Damian 241, Carmen del Parana 247, Trinidad 247, Jesus 256, Colonias Unidas 259, Excursion to San Ignacio Mini 260, Excursion to San Rafael Nature Reserve 267, Encarnacion 268 Chapter 8 Excursion to the Iguazu Falls 277 Puerto Iguazu 279, Foz do Iguacu 286 Chapter 9 Ciudad del Este and the East 295 Ciudad del Este 295, Itaipu 304 Chapter 10 Villarrica and Central Eastern Paraguay 309 Coronel Oviedo 311, Yataity 312, Independencia 313, Villarrica 315, Excursions from Villarrica 320, Caazapa 322 Chapter 11 Concepcion and the Northeast 329 Getting there and away 329, Travelling along Ruta 3 330, San Pedro de Ycuamandyyu 334, Concepcion 337, The far north 342, Pedro Juan Caballero 346, Parque Cerro Cora and the surrounding area 351, The far north of Cerro Cora 354, The east-northeast 354 Chapter 12 The Chaco 361 Within reach of Asuncion 363, Travelling along the Ruta Transchaco 364, The humid Chaco, up to Pozo Colorado 366, Filadelfia 367, Boqueron 371, Loma Plata 372, Salt Lakes 373, Mariscal Estigarribia 374, The Pantanal 377 Appendix 1 Language 384 Appendix 2 Glossary 392 Appendix 3 Selective list of fauna 397 Appendix 4 Further information 399 Index 405 Index of Advertisers 412