Andrew Evans has travelled widely in Iceland. Author of Bradt's Ukraine, he currently maintains a nomadic existence as National Geographic's Digital Explorer.

Introduction ix PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Population 6, Administration 7, Government 7, Politics 8, International relations 10, Economy 11 Chapter 2 The Icelanders 15 History 15, People 27, Language 30, Beliefs 31, Culture 34 Chapter 3 Natural History 43 Earth 43, Air 45, Fire 47, Water 48, Flora 51, Fauna 53 Chapter 4 Practical Information 69 When to visit 69, Highlights 70, Suggested itineraries 71, Tourist information 73, Tour operators 74, Red tape 75, Embassies and consulates 76, Getting there and away 77, Health 81, Safety 83, What to take 87, Money 91, Budgeting 92, Getting around 93, Accommodation 103, Eating and drinking 108, Public holidays 113, Shopping 114, Activities 114, Arts and entertainment 118, Media and communications 119, Business 121, Cultural etiquette 121, Velkomin! 122 PART TWO THE GUIDE 125 Chapter 5 Reykjavik 127 History 128, Getting there and away 131, Getting around 135, Tourist information 139, Tour operators 139, Where to stay 139, Where to eat and drink 151, Entertainment and nightlife 159, Shopping 163, Other practicalities 165, What to see and do 166, Natural Reykjavik 187, Greater Reykjavik 192 Chapter 6 Reykjanes 203 Getting around 203, Keflavik International Airport (KEF) 204, Reykjanesbaer 205, Vogar 207, Gardur 207, Blue Lagoon 208, Grindavik 210, Reykjanesta 211, Eldey 212, Krysuvik 213, Trekking in Reykjanes 213 Chapter 7 Sudurland (South Iceland) 214 Getting around 214, Thingvellir National Park 214, Hveragerdi 221, Gullfoss 222, Geysir 224, Skalholt 225, Laugarvatn 226, Selfoss 227, Vestmannaeyjar (The Westmann Islands) 229, Mt Hekla (1,491m) 240, Thjorsardalur 242, Landmannalaugar 242, Hvolsvollur 246, Skogar 247, Thorsmork 248, Vik 250, Kirkjubaejarklaustur 251, Lakagigar 252 Chapter 8 Vesturland (West Iceland) 253 Getting there and around 253, Hvalfjordur 254, Akranes 256, Borgarfjordur 259, Borgarnes 260, The saga circle 262, Husafell 263, Southern shore 263, Snaefellsnes 265, Snaefellsjokull National Park 265, Olafsvik 271, Grundarfjordur 271, Bjarnahofn 273, Stykkisholmur 273, Budardalur 276 Chapter 9 Vestfirdir (The West Fjords) 277 Getting there and away 280, Getting around 281, Isafjordur 281, Vigur 286, Aedey 287, Bolungarvik 287, Sudureyri 288, Flateyri 289, Thingeyri 290, Arnarfjordur 291, Bildudalur 294, Patreksfjordur 294, Latrabjarg 296, Around Latrabjarg 298, Vatnsfjordur 299, Breidafjordur 301, Flatey 302, Reykholar 305, Strandir 306 Chapter 10 Nordurland vestra (The Northwest) 313 Getting there and around 313, Vatsnes 313, Hunafjordur 317, Vatnsdalur 317, Blonduos 318, Skagafjordur 319, Saudarkrokur 319, Drangey 321, Varmahlid 321, Holar 323, Hofsos 325, Siglufjordur 326, Olafsfjordur 328, Dalvik 329, Hrisey 330 Chapter 11 Nordurland eystra (The Northeast) 331 Getting around 331, Eyjafjordur 331, Akureyri 332, Glerardalur 352, Eyjafjardarsveit 352, I Fjordum 354, Grimsey 355, Kolbeinsey 364, Thingeyjarsveit 365, Godafoss 365, Laugar 366, Myvatn 367, Beyond Myvatn 377, Husavik 377, Tjornes 381, Kelduhverfi 382, Jokulsargljufur National Park 383, Melrakasletta 389, Kopasker 390, Raufarhofn 391, Thorshofn 392, Saudanes 393, Langanes 393 Chapter 12 Austurland (East Iceland) 395 Vopnafjordur 395, Modrudalur 398, Egilsstadir 399, Fljotsdalur 401, Hallormsstadur 403, Vesturoraefi 404, The East Fjords 405, Borgarfjordur 405, Seydisfjordur 406, Reydarfjordur 409, Eskifjordur 410, Neskaupstadur 411, Faskrudsfjordur 412, Stodvarfjordur 412, Breiddalsvik 412, Djupivogur 413, Papey 414, Vatnajokull 415, Hofn 417, Lonsoraefi 420, Sudursveit 420, Jokulsarlon 421, Skaftafell National Park 422 Chapter 13 Halendid (The Highlands) 429 Getting around 430, Kjolur 432, Hveravellir 434, Kerlingarfjoll 434, Sprengisandur 435, Mt Askja (1,510m) 436, Mt Herdubreid (1,682m) 437, Kverkfjoll 437 Appendix 1 Language 439 Appendix 2 Further Information 448 Index 451